Autumn citrus cultivation techniques

Citrus is an evergreen fruit tree that can be planted for almost a year. However, the majority of farmers are accustomed to spring planting. Spring rains, low temperatures, high survival rates, and more convenient management. However, the seedlings planted in spring are first sprouted and then rooted. Due to sprouting, shoots consume large amounts of nutrients and water inside the tree body, and the nutrients and moisture that have just been absorbed by the roots of the tree are simply not able to supply the nutrients needed in the aboveground parts. In case of an increase in temperature, it often causes a disorder in the supply of water, and sprouting of the new shoots will not only affect the growth of spring shoots and roots, but also the summer and autumn shoots are not normal. According to our practice of planting fruit trees, transplanting seedlings and transplanting seedlings for many years, it has been proved that the autumn planting is better than the spring planting. Autumn planting time is suitable from mid-October to early November. At this time, the inner parts of the autumn shoots are mature and the dry matter accumulation in the seedlings is sufficient. Since the temperature dropped gradually after planting, the above-ground part generally did not germinate, but the soil temperature decreased quite slowly, and at this time it was very suitable for the growth of the seedlings in the underground, so the new roots could be grown 5-7 days after planting. According to random inspections, the new roots can be as long as 8-12 centimeters after 15 days. After 20 days, the new roots can be divided and the new roots can be as long as 30 centimeters. In the relatively dormant winter fruit trees, the seedlings have basically stood firm. This lays a solid foundation for the second year of vigorous growth, and the new shoots are normally drawn. Compared with the spring planting, the growth rate is about 30-40%. The weather in autumn is sometimes dry and dry, especially in mountain orchards. The lack of water sources makes it difficult to increase the survival rate. Therefore, it is necessary to: 1. Water the nursery. 5-7 days before emergence, irrigation 1-2 times, so that the seedlings suck enough water to plant seedlings after transplanting. 2, trim wounds and leaves. Cut the roots of the excavation from 1-2 centimeters before the birth position of the wound, which will accelerate recovery of wounds; cut the leaves of the seedlings from about 1 cm in front of the petioles (cut off 2/3 or 1/2 of a leaf), It is beneficial to reduce water consumption and improve survival rate (leaves at tender tips should not be cut). 3, strict packaging and transport seedlings. When raising the seedlings, first cut off the immature young late autumn shoots, beat the pulp, and wrap them with external straw. The seedlings should be packaged with the seedlings (big seedlings should be packaged individually). If the remote transportation should be watering the leaves, otherwise it will cause fallen leaves. 4, shallow plant compaction. When planting, the marrying interface appears about 5 cm from the ground. The roots are stretched in the natural direction and compacted compactly by layers of fine soil so that the roots are tightly integrated with the soil. At the same time, we must pay attention to not hurt the roots. 5, irrigation coverage. Immediately after planting, adequate water was poured to make the soil in the planting site soaked. After the surface water is sucked dry, spread a layer of fine soil, then the ground covers the grass, moisturizing insulation, help to improve the survival rate. 6, timely fertilizer. 15-20 days after colonization, diluted manure urine can be poured once. After the spring buds germinate in the coming year, a thin fertilizer is applied every 20 days to promote the growth of new shoots. (The nitrogen fertilizer is generally used within 2-3 years after planting to make them more shoots and promote the rapid expansion of the canopy. Profit early yield.)

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