Fruit tree branches play an important role in adjusting the tree structure, improving light conditions, mitigating tree vigor, promoting flower bud differentiation and early fruiting. However, according to the actual investigation, most fruit growers do not grasp the timing of branching, and they still follow the method of budding before budding in winter or spring. In winter and spring, fruit branches are hard and dry, and pull branches easily cause chapped, formed wounded branches, induced damage, and weakened tree vigor. Moreover, after the branches are drawn in winter and spring, the advantages of the fruit trees on the back are more obvious, which may cause the back branches to be too many and too large, leading to long trees on the trees and affecting the light conditions. Some fruit growers do not divide the tree species, species, regardless of the direction of the branches are reasonable, see the branches on the pull, see the seam to insert, so that the upper branches after the branch was significantly larger than the lower branches, resulting in premature degeneration of the tree vigor, shortened life expectancy. In order to save time and effort, some fruit growers use wire and string as pulling tools to bind bundles directly in the middle of the branches. As a result, the wire and string are trapped in the branch skin and cause bruising, leading to the superiority of the apical branch to an advantage on the back, and the base is thickened and accelerated, and the arcuate part is severely stripped, which is not conducive to flowering results. To this end, it is important to remind the majority of fruit growers that the branches of the fruit trees are not always available, and they cannot be drawn or tied. Otherwise, it will not only affect the effect of pulling branches, but also produce some side effects that are not worth the candle. 1. Lazhi time Fruit trees in North China should be carried out from August to September. At this time the branches are soft and easy to pull, easy to control the tree vigor, flowering rate is significantly higher than the winter and spring pull branches, and is not easy to produce back strip phenomenon, can achieve early results early high yield purposes. Second, pull branch angle Practice has proved that pull branch angle should be based on tree species, species, density, tree shape and site conditions and other flexibility. Pulling the branches into suitable angles allows the main lateral branches to be evenly distributed, and the upper and lower layers are patched to create a three-dimensional result. In general, for temporary auxiliary feeding, in order to promote its early results, it can be evened or even sag, and will be retracted or removed after 2 to 3 years; for permanent auxiliary feeding, it is necessary to maintain certain forces. Pull it up to 80 degrees. For large crowned trees, the main branch angle is 60 to 70 degrees; for spindle-shaped trees, the main branch angle can be increased to 80 to 90 degrees. Short-stem-type varieties are prone to premature decay, and in order to maintain their growth potential, the angle may be slightly smaller; common-type breeds thrive and the angle should be slightly larger. The site conditions are good, and the orchard with sufficient water and fertilizer can be larger in angle; the orchards with poor site conditions and insufficient fertilizer and water are less in angle. Third, the general principle of pulling branches is to meet the main and collateral growth space without affecting the shape of the tree and air and light, and to eliminate or retract excessive and dense auxiliary branches. When pulling a branch, the upper branch shows more than the lower branch, and the upper branch should be properly treated so that the upper branch exhibition does not exceed 1/2 of the lower branch. Fourth, pull branch site pull branch site should be located at 1/3 of the top of the shoot, so that the corner opening. If the branches are too thick, you can use one hand to hold the base of the branches, and the other hand to hold the branches not far from the corners of the branches. The part to be kneaded is soft and then pulled, so that the branches will not be pulled or the branches will be drawn into a bow-back shape. V. Lazhi Age For most fruit trees, the suitable branch length for the main and lateral branches is 2 to 3 years. Premature branches are still small, affecting the formation of the crown; too late, the main branches are often too thick and too big, pulling branches is very inconvenient, both labor-intensive and affect early results. Auxiliary branches can be opened at the first year of life, which is conducive to the early formation of high yield canopy. Sixth, when pulling the branches to pull the branches, it is best to use soft straw ropes, wide cloth strips, and thick plastic strips. If iron wires, string cords, etc. are used, sticks, cloth strips, etc. should be put on the branches to avoid causing them. Bruises. When the angle of the pull branch is fixed, the tie should be released in time to prevent the wire and string from falling into the skin and cause bruising, which will not only weaken the tree but also cause the disease. Seven, the treatment of the back branch After the fruit tree is pulled, it will usually sprout some back branches. If it is not processed in time, it will form a back branch. Therefore, after the branch is pulled, it should be cut, such as topping, twisting, girdling, twisting, etc. to cultivate medium and small branches. If there is no space, germination should be promptly removed. China Agricultural Network Editor
