The cultivation technique of many chrysanthemums

The chrysanthemums are aliased as yellow flower, empress flower, festival flower and so on. They are perennial perennial herbaceous plants and are the traditional flowers of our country. The country of origin is China. China has a long history of chrysanthemum cultivation, with more than 2,000 horticultural cultivars, natural flowering period from September to October. There are many cultivation methods and uses. Chrysanthemum in modern horticultural cultivation can be divided into multiple chrysanthemums, single chrysanthemums, dalitku, chrysanthemums, and tower chrysanthemums depending on the cultivation purpose Now we will introduce the cultivation techniques of many chrysanthemums as follows.

1 Selection

From the chrysanthemums that flowered in the previous year, the plants with good growth, stout stems, leafy hypertrophy, and large flowering petals were selected.

2 Nursery

Chrysanthemum is dominated by cuttings in horticultural cultivation. The cutting time for cultivating multiple chrysanthemums is generally better at the beginning of July. Select the shoots that grow vigorously on the top of the mother's head as purlins, 5 to 6 cm in length, and soak the roots with naphthalene acetic acid 200 mg/L for 3 to 5 hours. Insert a sterile trampoline (the trampoline is fumigated with perlite and rice husks and sterilized by chlorothalonil). Place it in a cool place and insulate it with water. After the chicks have survived, move them to a place with sufficient sunlight to moisturize.

3 Colonization

At the beginning of August, the seedlings were moved into pots of about 0.23m in diameter, and pots were filled with pots of 6 points. After irrigating the water, they were placed in shade sheds. After the seedlings were removed, they were removed from the arbour and placed in a well-ventilated area. The place where the light is mild, and the soil is added in early September, is beneficial to the rooting of the seedlings and avoiding the feet. Chrysanthemum like fertile loose acidic slightly sandy loam.

4 Watering

Chrysanthemum hi wet, when the cuttings potted soil should be slightly Run; pots after the colonization of the basin to see dry see wet, in order to promote root growth. After topping, control the watering so that the sprouts are full. After budding, the soil can be slightly moister. After flowering, it is necessary to control watering while maintaining a certain amount of moisture.

5 Fertilization

Chrysanthemum is fat, but it should be mainly thin and fat. When transplanting and planting, it is necessary to add some nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium compound fertilizer and bone powder in the soil as a base fertilizer to water the flowers with Taomi water, and 3 to 5 days in combination with watering to apply a thin nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium compound fertilizer. In September, liquid fertilizer was stopped, and 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution was sprayed to promote flower bud differentiation. Appropriately increasing the amount of fertilizer after budding and stopping the fertilization when the chrysanthemum was decolored. Top dressing is based on the growth of the chrysanthemum plant, leaves are small, and the shades are yellowish in a timely manner. The leaves are large, thick and drooping, and the color depth is controlled by fertilization.

6 Topping, pruning

Most of the chrysanthemums are mainly 3, and in the end of July, the first picking of the heart will take place, leaving 4-5 leaves to be removed. When the branches grow to 15cm, the distribution is evenly distributed and the growth is equivalent to 4 to 5 branches. The rest are cut off, leaving 1 to 2 more to prevent infestation or man-made damage, leaving only 3 branches when pregnant. The selected branch was supported by fine bamboo baskets, and soil was added to facilitate the emergence of new roots on the shoots to increase the absorption of nutrients at the time of pregnancy.

7 Modeling

It should be done as soon as possible. One day before modeling, watering should be stopped. On the second day, when the shoots are relatively soft, insert the bottom of the hook made of three wires from three directions into the pot soil, hook the three branches and hook them downwards to make them bend downwards and pull them. Level. A short column can be erected, and three branches near the base can be fixed with a string so as not to break. When the shoots are more than 15cm above the edge of the pot, a bamboo stick is inserted at the edge of the pot. Slightly outwardly inclined to the pelvic floor, the inclination of the three upper leaves do not overlap is appropriate, the height of the bamboo stick is higher than the final height of the daisy. After the first crop, the strongest branch (first branch) was slightly higher, the second branch was slightly lower, and the third branch was the lowest.

8 sunshine hours

The sunshine should be sufficient, except when the cuttings are to be placed in a semi-shade place. After the survival, it must be placed in a sunny place. After flowering, in order to prolong the flowering period, it is advisable to put it in a place where the sun is not in the sun, where there is no rain and scattered light is sufficient, and the flowering period can be as long as more than one month.

9 Lei Lei

In the light of the shortened light conditions in September, chrysanthemum gradually shifts from vegetative growth to reproductive growth, and flower buds begin to differentiate and bud. At this time, the axillary buds on the branches germinate a lot. In order to concentrate the nutrients in the buds, the side buds must be drawn. All erased as soon as possible. Chrysanthemum flower bud differentiation, the top of many buds, in order to prevent nutrient dispersion, when the buds such as mung bean large, each branch to the leaves of the buds all dredged away, leaving only one bud at the top of each branch and a spare bud next to, Peel off the rest of the buds and concentrate on nutrition for the master buds to create huge flower hybrids.

10 Pest Control

The common disease of chrysanthemum is brown spot. Preventing rain can reduce the incidence. Strengthening fertility can improve the resistance of chrysanthemum. In the early stage of onset and high-humidity weather, it is necessary to alternately spray 800 to 1000 times of chlorothalonil and carbendazim, which can avoid chrysanthemum resistance. The common pests of chrysanthemum are aphids, leaf miners, and green worms. The aphids and green worms can be sprayed with 40% omethoate 1000 times or 10% imidacloprid 2000 times. The leafflies can use 3% beta cypermethrin 1200 times for foliar spraying.

In the daily maintenance, more than one chrysanthemum, as long as the water and fertilizer are reasonable and measures are appropriate, it will be able to achieve the effect of luxuriant flowers, colorful flowers and uniform flowering period.


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