Key Techniques for Increasing Fruit Setting Rate in Greenhouse Peach
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In greenhouse peach cultivation, increasing the fruit set rate is crucial for ensuring high yields and maximizing profits. For growers, focusing on five key factors—temperature, humidity, fertilization, flower thinning, and pollination—is essential. Neglecting any of these can lead to significant losses, so it's important to maintain careful attention throughout the growing process.
1. **Temperature Management**
From mid-December to early January, temperature control should be gradual. Initially, uncover one-third of the greenhouse cover, then half after three days, and fully open after six days. At night, cover the plants with insulation to protect them from cold. If temperatures rise too quickly, peach buds may sprout too fast, leading to an issue where flowers appear after leaves—known as "flowers after the first leaves." This can cause nutrient competition between the tree and the flowers, resulting in poor flower development and reduced fruit set. On the other hand, if warming is too slow, flowering may be delayed, affecting the harvest time and economic returns. The ideal temperature ranges are:
- First 10 days: Daytime 13–15°C, nighttime 2–4°C
- Next 10 days: Daytime 16–20°C, nighttime 3–5°C
- Following 10 days: Daytime 18–20°C, nighttime 4–6°C
- Four days before flowering: Daytime 20–24°C, nighttime 5–7°C
- During flowering: Daytime 21–23°C, nighttime 8–10°C
- After flowering: Daytime 24–26°C, nighttime 8–10°C
2. **Humidity Control**
Before the buds begin to sprout, keep the air humidity around 80%. Once the buds start to grow but before flowering, reduce it to 60–70%. During the flowering stage, aim for 50–60% humidity. Too much or too little humidity can hinder pollination and increase the risk of diseases like gray mold and blossom rot. To manage high humidity, lay black plastic mulch after the second irrigation. If the humidity drops below 50%, water the ground to raise it. Growers should use a humidity chart to monitor conditions accurately.
3. **Fertilizer Application**
Five days after warming up, apply top dressing along with irrigation. Use 0.2 kg of compound fertilizer per plant. Increase the temperature for 20–25 days before the next irrigation. After the second irrigation, when the soil begins to dry slightly, cover the spaces between rows with black mulch to warm the ground and lower the air humidity.
4. **Flower Thinning**
Due to chemical techniques used in early flower bud differentiation, many more flowers are produced than necessary. When the flowers are sparse, remove the buds at the base and tip of the fruiting branches. On back buds and side buds, only leave one flower. Some growers worry about not having enough flowers, leading to excessive blooming that consumes too many nutrients, which affects fruit growth and quality.
5. **Pollination Techniques**
For self-pollinating varieties, no pollen collection is needed. Use a simple pollinator to gently touch the flower’s center or use a feather duster to brush across the blossoms. Pollinate between 9:00 am and 3:00 pm. For pollen-free varieties, collect the buds 2–3 days before pollination. Remove the calyx, gently rub the anthers with tweezers, and place them on paper. Maintain a temperature of 20–25°C and humidity of 50–70%. After 24–48 hours, the anthers will open, releasing pollen. Collect the pollen and store it in dry vials away from light. Pollination methods such as spot pollination not only improve fruit set but also help the fruits develop better, ultimately boosting yield.