There are many problems with large cherry trim

Proper pruning is essential for the healthy growth and productivity of large cherries. However, improper timing and techniques can lead to serious issues. One common mistake is incorrect timing and methods of winter pruning. Large cherry trees grow vigorously, with a long and late autumn dormancy period, resulting in loose tissues that are not well-developed. If pruning is done too early or too soon, it can cause wounds to dry out and lose moisture. In spring, excessive sap flow may occur, which can hinder the development of new shoots. Severe cases can result in branch death, weakening the overall vigor of the tree. The best time for pruning is usually mid-March, just before the buds begin to swell. When making cuts, it's important not to cut too high or too low. Cutting too high can slow down healing and increase the risk of drying or sap leakage near the wound. Cutting too low may damage the bud growth point, reducing the potential for new shoots. The ideal angle for a cut is 45 degrees above the bud, which promotes faster healing. Different types of branches require different cutting methods. For one-year-old branches, they should be cut back to the base of the flower buds. For older, perennial branches, the cut should be smooth, small, and free of blemishes. Avoid making "heavenly sky" cuts, as these are hard to heal and can lead to wood decay, affecting the tree's growth potential. After pruning, applying a sealer oil or fruit tree healing agent helps protect the wound and prevents infections. Another issue is the lack of diverse pruning techniques. Some growers focus only on one method, such as thinning or slow release, without considering other approaches. This can lead to an unbalanced tree structure, with rapid crown expansion, excessive branches, and poor light penetration. As a result, inner branches may become weak, leading to premature aging and empty spaces within the canopy. To avoid this, a combination of techniques should be used. For example, opening up branch angles should be paired with thinning and controlled release to maintain balance and promote healthy growth. Additionally, many growers fail to adjust the scale of pruning appropriately. Using a "one-size-fits-all" approach can be ineffective. For instance, if a short cut is applied but the length is unclear or the amount of pruning is insufficient, the desired effect will not be achieved. The length of the short cut depends on the tree's age and variety characteristics. Young trees should be pruned gently, with cuts made in the middle, typically around 50 to 60 cm. Once the tree starts bearing fruit, more aggressive shortening may be needed, but attention must still be paid to the specific traits of the variety. For varieties like "Napoleon," which produce fruit mainly on bouquet-like shoots, heavy shortening is often necessary. In contrast, strong varieties like "Big Purple" should be pruned lightly, with emphasis on removing strong peripheral branches and redirecting upright growth. The goal is to encourage moderate, well-spaced, and properly angled branches that support long-term productivity and tree health.

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