Three Points for Grafting Fruit Trees in Autumn
The grafting method commonly used in fruit tree growth can be carried out in spring, summer and autumn, with autumn being the most suitable, and the general survival rate is above 90%. Disclaimer: Some articles on this website are transferred from the Internet. If the legal rights of a third party are involved, please inform this website for processing. phone
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If the grafting is too early, the bud development is not yet sufficient, and the rootstock is in the stage of vigorous growth, with less nutrient accumulation in the body, the budding survival rate is low, and the budding is prone to freeze damage after germination in the same year; the budding is too late, it is not easy to peel off, after grafting Difficulty in healing, low survival rate.
Select buds to take the plump buds in the middle of the branches as buds. Care should be taken to protect the bud pad or bring a small amount of xylem when cutting the buds. The grafting buds are generally cut into a shield shape or a ring block shape, and the shield-shaped grafting buds are 1.5 to 2 cm long; the size of the ring block grafting buds depends on the rootstock and the thickness of the grafting branches.
Grafting method When grafting, the rootstock is processed first, and then the buds are cut off. Use "T" shape budding, first cut the "T" shape at the rootstock 3 ~ 5 cm from the ground, the depth is suitable to see the xylem and peel off the rootstock bark. Then carefully peel off the bark of the rootstock with the tip of a knife, and quickly embed the shield-shaped buds with petioles. Cultivate the soil 10 cm thick after the connection. After 10-15 days, pave the soil and check the survival condition. If the buds are fresh and light green, and the petioles fall off when touched, it means that they have survived, otherwise they should be reattached behind the rootstock.