Watermelon fire mushroom breeding four steps
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Watermelon fire mushroom nursery is a highly efficient and cost-effective method for growing healthy watermelon seedlings, especially during cold seasons. This technique offers rapid temperature rise, even heat distribution, and easy operation, making it an excellent alternative to electric hotbeds. It allows for the cultivation of strong, robust seedlings in low temperatures, typically between 1-2 months, with results comparable to traditional methods.
To begin, construct the seedbed by digging a bed that measures 4.5 meters in length and 1.6 meters in width, oriented north-south. The depth should be around 20 centimeters. At one end of the bed, dig a fire pit measuring 1.3 meters long, 1 meter wide, and 1.5 meters deep. Then, create a 40-centimeter-wide ditch around the bottom of the bed. At the end of the fire pit, dig a 40-centimeter-deep trench and a 20-centimeter-deep one leading from the fire pit. In the middle, excavate a pit that is 5 cm deeper than the original bed floor at the fire pit's end, while the other side slopes down into the trench. Dig a small 16 cm x 16 cm ditch in the center of the fire pit to help warm the area and extend it along both the northern and southern sides to the opposite end. From there, move toward the center and follow the central slope. Seal one end of the pit. On the wall facing the seedbed, dig an arched hole with a semi-circular top, 60 cm high, 45 cm wide, and 30 cm deep. Above this hole, create a 13 cm diameter opening pointing upward to connect with the fire pit on top of the bed, forming a stove. Cover the fire pit with tiles or similar materials and seal it tightly with mud to prevent leaks. Refill the soil to restore the original bed level. Ensure that the two central fire paths extend beyond the bed and connect to the chimney on the wall. Finally, build a perimeter wall around the bed—40 cm high on the north side, 10 cm on the south, and sloped walls on the east and west.
Before planting, prepare the seedbed by filling it with nutrient-rich soil. Mix field soil with half of well-rotted manure, and add 0.5 kg of urea (or diammonium phosphate) per cubic meter of soil. After mixing, fill the bed with a 10 cm layer of this mixture. Three days before sowing, water the bed with warm water. Once the soil is moist but not too sticky, divide the area into 10 cm square blocks and fill the gaps with fine sand. Cover the surface with plastic to retain heat.
Sow seeds when the seedbed temperature reaches 16°C at 5 cm depth, ideally during sunny days in mid-February. Soak and germinate the seeds before planting. After sowing, cover the seeds with 1 cm of soil and seal the bed with plastic. Use a cover at night to protect against cold.
Maintain the seedbed temperature at around 30°C after sowing. Once most of the seedlings emerge, adjust the temperature to 20–25°C during the day and 15–20°C at night. After the seedlings have broken through, keep the temperature between 22–28°C during the day and 15–20°C at night. Ensure proper lighting by removing covers early. If the soil becomes too dry, water with 30°C warm water during sunny days and re-cover the bed immediately. If no fertilizer is applied, spray the leaves with a 2% urea solution.