How to use the roof culture goldfish
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Raising goldfish on the flat roof of a concrete house is an innovative and practical way for urban residents to utilize underused space, offering both relaxation and potential income for those seeking to improve their financial situation. This method not only makes efficient use of available area but also provides a peaceful hobby that can lead to economic benefits.
The fish ponds are typically designed to be between 5 to 20 square meters in size, with a water depth of about 30 cm and walls standing 40 to 50 cm high. These pools are arranged in rows and kept separate from one another, which helps with management and disease control. A one-meter-high storage tank, or sunbathing tank, is recommended, with a capacity equal to half of a single pond’s volume. The bottom of the pool is coated with a 3 to 5 cm layer of No. 200 cement mortar to prevent leaks, and the walls are smoothed with plain cement paste. The side walls are constructed using bricks of different sizes (24cm, 12cm, 6cm), making it easy to walk on and place flowerpots. Drainage pipes should also be installed for proper water flow.
To protect the fish from excessive heat during summer, shade structures should be built above the pools, at least 1 to 2 meters above the walls. These sheds should be sturdy enough to withstand wind and rain and can be covered with climbing plants like grapes, pumpkins, or ornamental flowers to provide natural cooling.
Before stocking the fish, they should be disinfected. A solution of 20 grams of bleaching powder per cubic meter of water is commonly used, and the fish should also be dipped in a 3% saline solution before being placed into the pond. Stocking density varies depending on the size of the fish: 100–200 fish per square meter for 2 cm fry, 50–100 for 5 cm fish, and 10–20 for 10 cm fish. Fry can either be bred or purchased from reliable sources.
Goldfish are omnivorous, so feeding them requires a balanced diet. Several artificial feed recipes can be prepared, such as mixing rice bran, bran, and steamed shrimp powder into pellets, or combining fish meal with wheat bran and yeast to create nutrient-rich feed. Another option is to blend wheat flour, soybean cake, fish meal, and shrimp powder into a paste, then add alum and dry it into floating food. Feeding should occur once daily in the afternoon, and the amount should be adjusted based on three key observations: the fish's eating behavior, the weather conditions, and their activity level.
Water changes are essential to maintain clean and oxygen-rich water. If the water becomes yellow, pink, black, or green, or if it smells sour and the fish float during the day, it's time to change the water. Tap water is commonly used, and it's recommended to replace 1/4 to 1/3 of the pond water at a time, spraying it directly into the pool. If the pond is completely drained, the fish should be returned immediately, and the new water should be left to sit in the sun for at least a day to reduce chlorine levels and temperature differences. When changing water, avoid sudden rushes; instead, use a siphon to remove debris and add fresh water gradually. The ideal color of the pond water is light green.
Disease prevention is crucial. Common issues include bacterial infections, gill disease, and tail rot. To prevent these, ensure thorough cleaning and disinfection of the pond before stocking, properly sterilize the fish, add antibiotics to the feed, and maintain clear, non-decaying water. Newly introduced fish should be isolated for observation. Additionally, managing the growth of shade-providing plants enhances the environment. If diseases are detected, prompt treatment is necessary to avoid losses.